The Galapagos Islands |
The Galapagos Islands “Las Encantadas”, well, yes, they most certainly are- ‘the enchanted isles’, or ‘misty isles’. Which we can certainly relate to, after having quite a few misty days there! The name “Galapagos” means giant tortoise and is the only home in the world to this specific species. In 1959, 97% of the archipelago became a national park. An epicenter for marine biologists, scientists, conservationists, naturalists and the like, these islands are regarded as one of the most fascinating island groups in the world. In fact, there is no place on earth quite like the Galapagos. It is most famous for the observations of Charles Darwin, made here in 1835, while onboard the British naval vessel the ‘Beagle’, which lead to his ‘evolution theory’. The Galapagos are a diverse, newly formed group of islands and have a very unique and interesting evolutionary history. The fauna and flora found here have indeed specially adapted and evolved to survive in what can be a harsh environment for them. This is one of the things Galapagos is famous for, the sheer size of some of the plants and animals. More than anything else, tourist flock here (some 80 000 per year), for the special endemic species, found only in the Galapagos. Some of these would be ; the giant tortoise, blue footed boobie, seal lions Galapagos penguins and Galapagos white-tipped reef sharks, among many other specializes plants, shrubs and birds. No where else on this planet can you see such a unique array of land and marine animals. I had the privilege of doing a dive charter for 4 days, out around the isles east of Floreana. In as few as 10 dives I saw- moray eels, garden eels golden rays, marble rays, manta rays, sea-horses (one of the rare, special finds). All kinds of fish, from angels, trigger, surgeon, to scorpion fish, turtles, sea lions, white-tipped Galapagos sharks, and hammerhead sharks-shawls of them, all around you- ‘the’ diving experience if your in the Galapagos! I also got to see the legendary post office, in ‘post office bay’. This consists of 2 propped up, empty barrels, erected by buccaneers, whalers and sailors. The purpose of which is to serve as a drop of point for letters, in hopes that someone else will come along and collect the letters with the same destination as themselves. This tradition is still carried out today. As a sweet novelty people are still leaving letters there for someone else to pick up and deliver. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to leave any letters, as my unexpected visit to the bay was in the middle of the night, while looking for turtles laying there eggs. Being a ‘yachtie’, as your main stop over point you will find yourself in Porta Ayora, Santa Cruz. Possibly after you stop at Santa Cristobel on the way there and before you stop over at Isabella. We all found out quite quickly, that you tend to be very limited, as far as ‘doing your own thing’ goes. For example, out in the anchorage, you need to take a ‘water taxi’ to deliver you to shore and back, sometime this can require long, frustrating waits, while the taxi driver finish his siesta! If you want to go exploring anywhere to need to pay and go on an organized, guided tour. This is true for Santa Cruz and any other islands you wish to see, either on a day trip or on a couple of day charter. This all the sailors found to kind of defeat the purpose of having your own boat-having to pay to go on another to visit the islands. This said there are still many enjoyable tours you can do around Santa Cruz, as well as other nearby islands. I know Russell did the day tour-up the volcano, and lava tubes (quite a great walk though lava formed tunnels). I did a day dive tour, which was also very well organized and fun! So after 10days, or so, everyone is about ready to move on out- deeper into the pacific. Joining Free spirit on a Saturday, by Tuesday we were provisioned, fueled-up (we even had a very kind French couple along for the ride!) and ready to hit the island Isabella. Puerto Villamil, the only village on the island, has sandy roads and a very quite and relaxing atmosphere. We got to see the wetlands, as well as Muro de las Lagrimas (wall of tears), which was built by convicts. There were great views out over the landscape and the most ‘close-to-silence’ I have heard in a very long time. It had a feeling of wilderness, uninterrupted, but inviting wanting to make us camp out under the stars. We also got a chance to go up ‘Volcano Negro’, at 1200meters it’s the second highest volcano in the Galapagos. It is also the second biggest volcanic crater in the world, (11miles in diameter), second only to the one in Tanzania. After getting a taxi up though the lush green lower level areas, we jumped onto horse back and trekked for and hour and a half or so, past the volcano crater, which was veiled in miss. A bit unfortunate as far as seeing the spectacular sight goes, but adding to the mysterious journey up to the summit. ‘Volcano Chico’ offered views across the whole middle of the island, looking out to sea on both west and east sides. We could see the distinct path of the lava flows down the ragged terrain. The landscape at the summit is quite rightly compared to the surface of the moon! After initially dismounting the horses and walking for an hour, you get to a pure multi colored rock extravaganza! Lava tunnels, gaseous discharges, yellow sulphuric rocks, black lava ash, red stone. I forgot lunch, which turned out to be a great move, as we got to go off, with the horses, back to base camp on our own accord, without the other flock of tourists and there accompanying noise! It was wonderful, descending the volcano in the misty quite. An ‘other-worldly’ experience! The next day we did a snorkeling trip around in the bay. This included a visit to a natural rocky reef to see a whole swarm of white tipped Galapagos sharks. There were at least 40 of them, just some 3 meters away from your feet! I saw huge turtles, rays and played with the seal lion cubs in the shallows. We also got to see the penguins and blue footed boobies. After loosing two of our prized pineapples to mold, we re-stocked on some avos and paw paws, strolled along the white sandy beach, and mentally prepared ourselves for the trip ahead of us- 3000miles of sailing across some of the most remote ocean in the world…bring it on! We left the tranquil anchorage, which was then over full since no one could leave on the Friday, it actually being the 13th as well! We pulled up anchor, after French toast for breakfast and did a tour around the bay to say cheers to our friends. We received some encouraging calls “see you in the Marquesas”, “good winds” etc! What a nice feeling to be part of a larger group that you are all in this together, in a way. Helping each other out with weather reports, routes intended, advice on islands, maintenance assistance, and general encouragement. I have already met so many amazing people on this trip I am embarking on-sailing from Europe, and eventually all the way back there! After spending a whole season classic yacht racing in the Mediterranean, I am finally finding out what the ‘cruising community’ is all about!! |